through parts of the US by motorhome
"Es ist 1996, meine Freundin ist weg und bräunt sich....." - good times when German HipHop was hip, greatings to FETTES BROT.
Actually, it's not 1996, it is September 2024, I am single, which is not a bad thing, since the last two were a grab for - well, let's just forget about that, and a newsletter from a travel agency gets my attention:
transfer of a motorhome in the States, in the beginning of March 2025, starting at a price from 800 bucks.
A cheap flight from Germany to the USA costs less, so roughly we are speaking about 1.500 bucks for a three weeks holiday. For sure, additional costs for diesel, food and various leisure activities and entrance fees for national parks, for example. As mentioned, the brand new motorhome itself costs only a fraction of the regular rental price, as it has to be transported from the factory to a rental company (destination is almost freely selectable). Depending on the length of the transport journey - two to four weeks would be possible - enough free kilometers are included - exciting, really very exciting.
More or less immediately, I wrote to potential companions to ask if they would like to go on the trip. At the same time, I asked my boss about unpaid vacation, as the rest of my vacation days for 2025 were already largely planned. Two weeks later, I got the unpaid time off approved, found a companion and agreed to the trip.
Let the games, I mean, the planning begin.
The days pass, and I keep thinking about vacation. But, as is often the case, nothing happens without pressure. Sure, you have a rough route planned, since we have to return the motorhome. But that's about it. At some point, of course, you start thinking about what else you can do besides driving. Hiking, for example, so you quickly buy some hiking boots so you can break them in and don't end up running around with blisters on your feet. And you also have to think about communication. One advantage of the modern age is that you can simply get an eSIM. So you download the app right away and see how it works. Well, it doesn't work; my phone is too old and doesn't support this function yet. So I think about alternatives. I could take the almost brand-new company phone with me. Okay, I'll do that. So let's try it out right away: deleting or deactivating all the company apps. The trial week looks promising, so I'll go for it. Yes, then we can get started, all that's left to do is pack. After all, it's only the evening before departure, so there's endless time – ahhhh, panic, but as I said, nothing happens without pressure. But in the end, that's done too; I'm not inexperienced in this regard. The only question left is: "Should I bring the tripod or not?"
I'm really happy, the last few weeks have been very stressful at work and I think I've really earned a vacation now!
day 1 - from home to the States - Chicago
Friday the 13th passed months ago, but it's Friday and the trip starts. Everything is packed and I make my way to the train station. No, I'm not taking the train across the pond, but I have to get to the airport somehow. Two hours later I meet Meli at the airport in Zurich and we go to check in. Direct flight from Zurich to Chicago, 10 hours 15 minutes, that's the plan.
The flight itself is, as always, not so exciting, and at just before 6 p.m. Chicago time we are actually in the States. Border control goes without a hitch as it ended in “welcome back Mr. Reiff” and I could pass, off to the hotel, a quick bite to eat or a beer and off to bed, somehow it's already just after 3 a.m. Swiss time.
day 2 - Chicago
2 a.m., I have to go to the bathroom. Okay, it's still European time, somehow. I slept for another two hours, but then I was awake. Well, I played around on my phone for a bit, but that was over quickly, and I switched to my laptop. I'll start correcting reports, writing them, and posting them online— as I'll translate everything simultaneous into English, too, it takes a while—and then I can get up for lunch, or breakfast, that’s what it is from time in the morning.
After a hearty breakfast, we headed straight into the city. It's supposed to take about two hours from the hotel. So, just after 10 a.m., we got off at the River Walk and strolled along the still slightly greenish water, which is dyed for St. Patrick's Day. As newcomers to America, we admired the first skyscrapers. From the River Walk, we continued to Navy Pier. A strong wind blew around our ears, so we were glad to warm up every now in the tourist area at the souvenir shops and there like. Despite the wind, we were still able to take a ride on the Ferris wheel, which gave us a different perspective.
After a quick lunch, we continued on to the city center. We got there quickly via Millennium Park and Grant Park. If your shoe pinches, that's a shame, so we need some new ones. My shoes weren't, though. But we found what we were looking for pretty quickly and were able to head back to the parks along the waterfront before slowly making our way toward the Willis Tower. We had booked access to the Skydeck two months ago and wanted to watch the sunset from above. What sounded good at first turned into almost torture. Despite booking, we waited forever until we actually reached the 400 meters, and then, unfortunately, the sun had already set. Nevertheless, we were still able to take a few nice photos through the glass floor before joining the next line to take the elevator down. We quickly went to the bathroom before getting back on the S-Bahn to go back to the airport, or rather, to the hotel, which would take about two hours. Luckily, we caught the shuttle bus directly from the airport to the hotel, so we were able to grab a quick dinner just before 10 p.m. before arriving at the hotel, completely exhausted. Brushed our teeth, peed, and went to bed. Oh, and we even took a shower just before.
day 3 - Chicago
After yesterday's rather strenuous 25km walk through the town, we went to breakfast a little later today. Nevertheless, we were back on the road at 9:30, even though the planned program was considerably more relaxed. First we went to the Natural History Museum – I think
you could call the most famous “Field Museum of Natural History” like this. It's not unusual for some museums to have dinosaur skeletons on display; what is unusual here is that this was probably the best-preserved and most complete Tyrannosaurus Rex skeleton ever found, and it was named after its discoverer, Sue Hendrickson. It was pretty impressive. After the museum, we wanted to treat ourselves to the world-famous Chicago-style pizza. It was delicious, but next time when I want to eat tomato soup, I won't order pizza.
After that, we continued on toward Chinatown, the second-largest of its kind in the US. But somehow, that just opened my eyes to the fact that I have far too much junk at home, and I even regretted the rubber pirate duck I bought yesterday to match my Alestorm T-shirt. Meanwhile, it started to rain, and we headed back to the hotel. We did a little shopping so we'd have something to eat tomorrow when we could pick up our RV to head off, and then went to bed a little earlier than the last two days.
day 4 - from Chicago to the camper takeover and starting the tour - goin` out west
First we have a leisurely breakfast. The transfer taxi doesn't arrive until 10am, so we should be prepared by then. Well, that was the idea at first when we booked
the trip. But due to organisation reasons, the transfer taxi was not at 10am, it was at 5:45 am. No breakfast, not enough sleep, but anyway, when can pick up the camper earlier than expected, so
we can start earlier being
on the road. Sure enough, at 5:45 a.m. we were on the shuttle bus to Elkhart, the capital of RV and caravan manufacturers. As far as the eye could see, there were vehicles waiting to be picked up or processed in every yard. We booked our vehicle with Road-Bear, and that's where we went. The vehicles were issued according to the booking order, but "Oh no, what's that? We're getting the smallest vehicle they have available." But of course, that wasn't a problem; it's also 7 meters long and has a pull-out cab. And so it was that by 10 a.m., in the lightest snowfall, we were already sitting in our brand-new Ford E350 and ready to go.
First, we went to the next Walmart, did a bit of shopping, and then had breakfast. Meanwhile, we made our plan for the day. We headed south, somewhere, so we wouldn't get within the Chicago metropolitan area—that's not necessary when starting out with a new and unfamiliar vehicle. So we headed southwest. About five hours later, we arrived at our planned spot. First we took care of our luggage. We unpacked and tidied up, made the bed, had a beer, and then it was time to cook dinner. While I took care of the food, Meli spent a bit of time looking at the maps and possible directions. Since, as with almost every one of my trips, there's at least one fixed point I'm heading for, this time too, there's a bit of planning involved. I won't reveal what, of course, otherwise you guys don’t have the surprise.
And after I've captioned a few more pictures, it's time for bed. When you get up so early, you can go to bed a little earlier.
day 5 – Crawfordsville nach Des Moines (455 mls – 732 km)
Since the weather forecast for today
wasn't so rosy, we decided to cover a longer distance. It was indeed very cloudy and drizzling when we set off. It didn't really rain until in and around Davenport when we crossed the Mississippi. Shortly after, the weather improved considerably, and
things were getting exciting, as it was time for our first
gas stop with our camper and for us as well. Your hear
a lot about how the refueling process might work in the USA: that you have to unlock the pump first inside the station at the desk, that the attendant comes and fills it up, or that you just pay a certain amount before and can continue straight away after filling up. Well, a credit card reader put all those thoughts to rest, and I could start filling the gas tank. I thought I'd done something wrong because the "liter count" was increasing so slowly, until I remembered that they count gallons here. But then I was a little shocked. $158 for 48 gallons. Or for those who think in decimal terms: 178.6 liters for a mere 140 CHF, or 147 EUR. So, in effect, just under 25 liters per 100 km. But we're only cruising. Nevertheless, I enjoy the sound of the engine: 6.8 liters of displacement and 8 cylinders in a V configuration, simply a great combination; you just have to push through it every now and then.
We quickly picked up a few things in Des Moines to keep us comfortable and then headed for our destination. Shortly after getting back on the interstate, things got really close when a truck pulled into our lane from the right. We jimmied hard, dropped the anchor, and veered discreetly to the left, just barely preventing the trailer from ripping our mirror off. Phew, a few beads of sweat, but everything worked out. Time for a beer.
Even though we didn't experience much today, you're still forced to take a break every now and then on long journeys. The rest areas are in no way comparable to those in Germany or Europe. Gas stations are always off the highway, but the parking lots with restrooms are so luxurious, you'll be amazed. Free WiFi, spotless anyway, and various vending machines for drinks and snacks. Plenty of seating outside, some with children's playgrounds and barbecue facilities. No sign of vandalism or anything like that, which is now the norm in Europe. In short: if you want to, you can do things differently, but in Europe people would rather discuss standardized banana curvature and other nonsense.
day 6 – Des Moines nach Yunkton (Sioux Falls) (341 mls – 549 km)
For some reason, I woke up extremely early. But it was definitely too early to get up, so I just started thinking about what to do in the next few days. But shortly after 6 a.m., I had no choice, and I have to find a tree. The weather was absolutely clear, with frosty white meadows. Back from my morning walk, I sat down at the computer again and wrote reports, translated them, and posted them online. Unbelievable, but that takes up an awful lot of time; just an hour in the evening isn't nearly enough. After successfully waking Meli up
with my typing, we had breakfast and off we went. Our destination, Yankton, involved a little detour via Sioux Falls, which meant we drove a few more miles than expected, but hey, we're on vacation and we're enjoying it. We kept stopping at the great restroom cabins to stretch our legs and then refueled in Sioux City. And since I appreciate hearing the sound of the V8, the fuel consumption was a bit higher again. After filling up, we arrived in South Dakota, where the maximum speed limit was 80 mph, or just under 130 km/h. It would be ridiculous if we didn't manage the 30 liters per 100 km. So we blasted down the interstate at full throttle. The onboard fuel gauge said 8 miles per gallon, but I'll figure out exactly what that means tomorrow at the next gas stop. It's frightening, though, to be driving at 130 km/h in a camper and then be overtaken by extra-wide heavy-duty trucks—unbelievable. Europe is completely backward in this regard, too, with their 80 km/h speed limit for trucks in most countries.
The waterfall in Sioux Falls itself was very beautiful, and since we were traveling off-season, it was also very relaxed. There weren't many people, and you could actually see the waterfall, not just people. It looked much bigger in the pictures on Dr. Google, but hey, size isn't important. A little shopping for the evening, and then we settled into our spot for the day.
day 7 – Yankton to Rapid City (400 mls – 644 km)
Similar to my last vacation last year, we suddenly had a spare day that we could plan ahead. Since the weather was supposed to get a bit worse for the coming weekend, with snow and frost, we decided to tackle the next leg a bit faster and drove straight to Rapid City. We planned to stay there for two nights so we could have a day off from logging miles. After a delicious breakfast of scrambled eggs and
bacon, we set off. We did stop at the sculpture park, but as few people were around, blocking the beautiful perspective for photo opportunities, various sightseeing spots were also closed, which unfortunately meant that we couldn't get into the park. We continued on, and there was a sign for the "world's only Corn Palace." As crazy as it sounds, it's on the route, so we pulled off the interstate for a bit and checked out the corn palace. For 120 years, changing motifs made of corn plants and corn cobs of various varieties and colours have been set up outside, if you can even say set up. Nice, totally crazy, but nice. We continued on, and the persistent advertisement for Wall Drug practically dictated the next stop. But first, it's time for lunch. Since we had already crossed the Mississippi in the rain, we benefited from perfect T-shirt weather today, and we made ourselves comfortable on the bank of the small stream of Missouri for lunch. 70 miles later, it was time to go shopping at Wall Drug. I actually took advantage of it and bought myself some lovely leather moccasins, a new belt, and a new wallet. Whether it was actually cheaper where the leather came from, I don't know, but as long as you like the purchase, it doesn't really matter. We had just reached the next time zone; we are now seven hours behind Swiss time, but this at least gave us a bit of a buffer,
because with all the stops and the length of the leg, it was going to be a long day. And with the song "Rapid City" by Cauldron playing, we drove into Rapid City. A quick bit of shopping and stocked up on supplies for our hike around Mt. Rushmore planned for tomorrow. Luckily, we had some carbonara left over from yesterday, so we finished cooking and eating quickly, and after a beer together after work, it was time for bed. But wait, I've heard that some people check what's new first thing in the morning. So I quickly fired up my laptop and started writing reports.
day 8 – Rapid City to Douglas (227 mls – 365 km)
We actually wanted to do a bit of hiking today and then go to the
campsite where we'd rented a spot to do some laundry and unwind after the strenuous last few days. But last night we weren't particularly impressed with the bathroom facilities. When the next morning
we found that every single men's toilet was covered in grease, we quickly left. That's just not acceptable. Well, our first stop was Mt.
Rushmore, that much was clear. But you couldn't do much hiking there, as most of the paths were actually still in hibernation. So we thought about how and where to go next. There are loads of beautiful winding roads on the map, but we were just wondering if they would all be passable with our vehicle. So we quickly asked a ranger who was on duty at the Mt. Rushmore monument. Good idea, as it quickly turned out. Some of the roads are not suitable even for our small motorhome because we are too high up for tunnels and bridges. But the friendly ranger gave us good advice and told us which way to go. It was a great recommendation: really great routes, incredible views of beautiful landscapes. We also saw some wildlife that we hadn't expected. Ground squirrels, courting turkeys, bison and even a coyote crossed our path, which, although not that far, was very long due to the many stops. We even learned a bit of history at the Crazy Horse "construction site". And so it was that we set up our camp near Douglas, south of the Black Hills National Forest and Wind Cave National Park, until shortly after 7 p.m.
Tag 9 – Douglas to Fort Collins (185 mls – 298 km)
After yesterday, it was only logical that we slept in a little longer. We were greeted by thick fog with a scattering of raindrops, but so far so good; we actually hadn't planned much today. A short leg south. The landscape, as monotonous as it may seem, was both mystical and diverse to us, and we sat dry and comfortable in our camper and leisurely drove south along Interstate 25 toward Denver. In Cheyenne, the capital of Wyoming, we stopped briefly for lunch and, of course, to buy everyday items. 70 miles later, just before 4 p.m., we arrived at the campsite, much earlier than in the last few days, where we were finally able to do some laundry and take a long, hot shower. We tidied up the camper, cooked food, and made plans for the next few days. Sometimes we need to take things a little easier.
day 10 – Fort Collins and around (35 mls – 56 km)
Colorado, and Fort Collins in particular, is known for its clear, pure water straight from the Rocky Mountains. For this reason, several breweries have settled here. One name may be familiar: "Anheuser Busch Inc.", but they haven't actually been here that long; some smaller breweries have been here longer. But if you're already there, and Dr. Google claims that you can get daily tours of Anheuser
Busch, then you should plan accordingly. And for a rainy day like today, that's a perfectly reasonable plan. Well then, a leisurely breakfast, unplugged the cable, and off we go. Well, but Google is obviously poorly informed, because Anheuser Busch is also taking a winter break. D’oh. Well, there are other breweries, we spontaneously decided on one, which we want to visit after the other items on the agenda. A church had also been highly praised on Google, which is why we wanted to check it out. It's Sunday, so it should be fine. But, again, incorrect information: closed. At least we weren't the only ones standing in front of a closed door. Okay, let's move on. Meli wants to go shopping; the goal is to find stores that don't exist in Europe. Okay, that wasn't for me, but I sat in the corner with my phone and did a few Sudoku puzzles. It's worth doing sometimes. We briefly considered whether to have lunch or go straight to the brewery. Hunger won out, so let's get something to eat first. I really wanted to try a steakhouse, and that's what we did. We had a very delicious, and probably not exactly cheap, meal, but it was worth every cent. Afterward, we continued on to the brewery. Unsuspecting, we headed for the entrance and practically tumbled back out again. The "Voodoo Ranger" was grinning at us. It can't be true. These IPA beers are known in Switzerland too, but neither Meli nor I had given any thought to where they came from. Now we knew. From Fort Collins, from the New Belgium Brewery. An incredible coincidence. The next coincidence – the next tour was starting in 8 minutes. Great, we'll take it, and we'll basically get a "private tour" just for the two of us. That was so much fun, not just for our guide, but for us too. And there was so much beer to sample that I had to slow myself down, after all, I still had to drive later. Nevertheless, we wanted to try a little more of the selection, so we sat down at the bar. A young couple joined us, and we had great conversations and exchanged contact details. And so it happened that although we had made great plans for today, we ended up having completely different and even more amazing experiences. That's what makes vacation fun and that’s how travelling should be.
day 11 – Fort Collins to Strasbourg / Denver (116 mls – 187 km)
A trip to Denver was planned for today. But since we didn't go shopping yesterday, we did that first thing today. Walmart isn't exactly designed for quick shopping, so it took us longer than expected, despite being well prepared with a shopping list and all. Oh well, never mind. Once that was done, we headed into town. The Botanical Garden, highly praised in many places, was our first stop. And indeed, it was very beautifully laid out, with open spaces, a tropical house, lots of water, and everything you'd expect. I'd never seen anything like it
before and was accordingly impressed, even though not much was in bloom yet. Here, too, the winter lasted a bit longer, and it's still quite chilly at night. But overall, Denver is much further along in terms of flowering and budding trees than what we've seen in the last 10 days. After the Botanical Garden, it was time to get spiritual. Off to the "International Church of Cannabis". A psychedelic light show was included, along with various old and ancient video games for free use, and before we knew it, two and a half hours had passed. Afterwards, just before rush hour, we headed north again. We'd bought concert tickets months ago, and this was to be our evening's entertainment. "Amyl and the Sniffers", an Australian punk rock band, rarely tours Europe and, when they do, sells out in a flash, so it's a good opportunity to take advantage of the venue when you're just around the corner. A nearly sold-out crowd, incredibly great acoustics, and after a fantastic concert, we just quickly got out of town before getting ready for the night.
day 12 – Strasburg to Montrose (350 mls – 563 km)
Oops, the night was short, and considering we wanted to set off earlier, at just before 10 a.m. it was actually a bit later than usual. First we had to head for the nearest gas station, otherwise it could be very expensive on the planned route, as we would have to drive south somewhat off the main roads around Denver. We had actually wanted to drive straight through Denver and along Interstate 70 into the Rocky Mountains, but heavy snow overnight and also during the day today led to various closures and avalanche warnings. So we changed our plans. The country is big enough that we can find suitable entertainment anywhere. And we quickly found it on the
alternative route: the RoyalGorge Bridge, west of Pueblo, just beyond Canon City. We missed the entrance at first and turned around again. We deliberately dragged the sun behind us so we could have beautiful views. So we bought an incredibly expensive ticket for the bridge and had barely left the ticket booth when a snowstorm started. So much for the sun. I thought it was funny; the bridge was swaying and twisting quite a bit, as suspension bridges tend to do in the wind. It was almost impossible to stay upright, a good 300 meters above the river, but we bravely fought our way to the other side. We caught our breath in the lee of a large rock and then made our way back. We arrived back a little frozen, one half white with snow, and of course, the sun came out again and the wind died down. We continued west; we still wanted to do a few kilometers. Just beyond Salida, where the road branches off into the famous Aspen ski area, we actually wanted to spend the night. But we were well on time; more snow was forecast overnight, so we decided to drive a bit longer. But not far behind Salida we reached the “Old Monarch Pass” with a pass height of around 3,450 m, no small hill, and there was snow on the road. Turning back was out of the question, of course, so I closed my eyes and carried on. It actually went really well. Views that would make your heart sing. Even now, hours later, I'm still totally impressed.
Standing up there would have been possible, but since our propane supplies were running low, we decided to head for a campsite so we could heat the night with electricity. That's another 100 miles to the next open campsite in Montrose. Oh well, there was no snow left on the plateau, so that's okay. But in Gunnison it started snowing again. It won't be so bad; as long as we keep getting overtaken by 40-ton trucks, we'll manage. Shortly before our finish along Black Canyon National Park, we had to cross another pass. A solid blanket of snow. But I'm slowly getting the hang of our camper and was able to manage the last 25 miles without any problems. We were happy when we could finally stretch our legs at the campsite shortly after 8 p.m. The forecast is for -9°C tonight, and below 0°C all day tomorrow. We'll see which way we go; we're too tired to think clearly tonight.
day 13 – Montrose to Moab (173 mls – 278 km)
We had a bit of time this morning because we still had to fill up with propane, and the reception doesn't open until 10 a.m. We had a leisurely breakfast, a shower, and tidied up the car, and then it was time to fill up the gas and hit the road. Our goal was Arches National Park, but of course not exclusively on the interstate, but rather on the smaller roads. Until we left Colorado, it was the interstate after all. Shortly after that, we turned off the interstate, and the signs promised fun: "tough road." Yeah, we made a lot of slower progress, because you had to watch out for potholes on the so-called paved road. But after a few miles, the excitement was over, and we had one
of the best roads we'd had in the last days. But we didn't really make any progress. Around every bend lurked a new "Wow, look at that, incredible..." We drove a few more miles before stopping at a park and rest area for lunch by the Colorado River. Even here, at the beginning of the Colorado River, the carvings are a good 50-100 meters high. How gigantic must the Grand Canyon look then!? After a short break, we continued on for about a mile. Rest, take in the scenery, take photos, and the miles dragged on. Shortly after 3 p.m., we arrived in Moab, from where we would then head to Arches National Park. But, with so few attractions open in the last few days, nothing was possible without a ticket. The internet didn't work, and we were stuck there. An elderly lady drove up and at least called the information hotline, only to tell us a minute later that everything was already booked until April 9th. Oh dear, that’s not the plan at all, not good when we gonna miss that. So we looked for a place to park for the night and checked out the situation. That probably applies to many other national parks too. Who would have thought we would have had to book so early, out of season? When I checked before the vacation, everything was still available. Well, after a quick search, it was said that remaining tickets or canceled tickets would be released from 7 p.m. I seized the opportunity and jumped at the chance. Tomorrow we're going to Arches National Park. In the meantime, we've cooked and processed the day's incredible impressions, so it's time to go to bed.
day 14 – Moab to the Arches National Park and back (76 mls – 122 km)
Yesterday, we were really lucky with the tickets for the national park. And since we went to bed early, we had to get up early too. Breakfast, some more shopping and restocking, and then get in line to hopefully get into the park on time, since there are still some waiting times despite bookings. There wasn't really a queue, so we went straight up. We decided to work our way back to the front, so we headed straight for the last available parking space. And we were really lucky with the weather; despite the forecast, it didn't rain. Much better: it snowed. This could be fun. We chose an easy hiking route to start with – the "Primitive Trial." Funnily enough, this is the hardest trial there is in the national park – totally primitive. We're good at it. But hey, we're fit Europeans after all, and a bit of hiking is no problem. And snow-covered rocks, I mean, what does that matter!? Well, at first it wasn't really that bad, but somehow we got lost right away, partly because of the snow, and partly because we were so impressed by the scenery. Shortly after, though, we found ourselves back on the right pass. It might look
even more impressive in the sun, but in the snow, it's almost eerie, but probably no less impressive. A few hooks and arches later, we finally managed to get back down and warm up in the camper. And as expected, as soon as we were in the dry, the snow stopped and the sun broke through the clouds. Well, that wasn't all the national park had to offer.
After a snack for lunch, we continued on. Since the hike up to that point had been strenuous, we only went to the viewpoint of the next stone arch. But it was so far away and so difficult to see that we decided to tackle the 4.8 km as well. And since the sun was now shining brightly, it was definitely worth it. Once again, we enjoyed incredible views that can neither be put into words nor captured in pictures. You simply have to see it for yourself. By the time we got back to the camper, it was well after 5 p.m. We should slowly but surely find a place to stay for the night; with so many people here, it would otherwise be a challenge. One more quick stop at "Balanced Rock" before we left the national park again. As feared, finding a place to stay for the night was indeed a challenge, but we managed that too. Cooking, showering, writing the report, bed. My phone says we hiked almost 26 km today – phew, that's pretty good.
day 15 – Moab to „Pampa“ – (close to Hite) (230 mls – 370 km)
We slept in again today. Who would be surprised, after a day of hiking in snow, ice, and, ultimately, heat, to Delicate Arch, over the bare rock? It was a good thing we'd already made a plan for where we wanted to go today. After breakfast, we set off right away. First, north
to head south. Despite the sunshine, we saw thick rain or snow clouds again over Arches National Park, which was at least a relief, given that it can be terrible weather any day, regardless of the forecast. On the other hand, the forecast for today's route and our destination was perfect, cloudless weather. The first few miles were indeed cloudless, but when we finally turned south again, things didn't look quite so rosy. Thick clouds hung over the mountains, especially over the approximately 3,600-meter-high Mt. Hillers, which roughly corresponded to our direction. Well, we still have a few bends to go, so it could be deceiving. It'll be fine. 40km west of Hanksville, we took a short detour to follow the hordes of tourists to the "Hickman Bridge," another stone arch. There we learned that the direction we were headed was, for a change, once again covered in thick snow, and the pass drive didn't look like much fun. So we hopped in the camper and hatched a plan B. That was quickly done, too. Back toward Hanksville, or rather beyond, and then hit the bushes just before Lake Powell to set up camp for the night. Mt. Hillers was our constant companion and remained shrouded in thick clouds until the very end. And yes, even in America there are one or two spots on earth that aren't contaminated with cell phone radiation—what peace and quiet without having to constantly stare at your cell phone.
day 16 – from the Pampa into the Pampa close to Cortez (213 mls – 343 km)
We woke up to more sunshine than we'd had in last few days all together. It felt like every window was shining in, despite the blinds being drawn. That's how it should be. We actually wanted to do a bit of hiking today along the right bank of the Colorado River, aka Lake Powell. But yesterday's weather threw us off course, so that was canceled. Plan B was to head east again, along White Canyon, with a detour
into the small Natural Bridges National Park, where we took our lunch break. And suddenly we were back in Colorado. The landscape around us is constantly changing; in Utah we were traveling along the Scenery Route through the carved cliffs of the Colorado River, while in Colorado itself the wide fields dominated. The view changed around every bend and every hilltop, which was quite impressive. Shortly before Cortez, where we planned to camp for the night, a snowstorm came along for a change. The windshield wipers were on full blast, but visibility was still limited. But that too subsides, and we look for a spot. It's so densely populated here that every dirt road we could have taken a little further back was blocked off with a gate. An inconspicuous sign indicated RV parking, but we couldn't really see
anything. So we quickly turned onto the farm and asked what it was all about. The older farmer said his daughter had set something up there, and they weren't actually open yet, because they are still preparing for the season. But the electricity works, and the shower cabin is already in use; he showed it to us. A mile later and down a bumpy dirt road, we arrived at a place we hadn't expected. A few spots for campers, a few spots for tents, several horse-drawn wagons converted into luxury apartments, an outdoor kitchen, fire pits, including wood (for which you didn't have to pay extra). Everything was very spacious, so you don't have to hang around each other if you don't want to. Very nice, I'll definitely write a nice review on Google. We were, oh wonder, the only guests. No internet, so another quiet evening lies ahead. But if we have a shower, we might as well use it. Eat, write reports, sort through pictures, and then even an evening like this is over quickly. Another great day, with amazing views of incredible landscapes like from another planet.
day 17 – Cortez to the Monument Valley (159 mls – 256 km)
Well, I didn't really sleep well. It was probably because the moon was shining in my face the whole time. Okay, I could have closed the roll, but then I wouldn't have seen the stars anymore. Anyway, after breakfast we set off. The stages are a bit shorter these days than they were a week ago, so we're not stressed. At the beginning, it felt like we were constantly riding uphill, even though we were definitely heading downhill along the stream. The views were, as always, magnificent, and there was a bit of everything. We briefly passed the "four countries corner," some also call it the "Four Corners Monument," before taking a small detour back into Utah. And now things get really interesting. We're approaching the Grand Canyon from the north. We pass through Monument Valley. With one bend in the road to the next, the landscape changed from yellow-brown to red. The familiar cliffs, or whatever you want to call this rock formation, grew larger and larger. A quick stop in the middle of the highway to take a photo, like in Forest Gump, and on we went. We had to stop every few miles, overwhelmed by what nature had presented us with. We booked the campsite 10 days ago; it was time to do the laundry again. So the washing machine was running, and we unpacked the folding chair and sat in the sun, with a view you don't get to see every day. I know I'm repeating myself, but the day was once again magnificent. Great route, great impressions. Simply fantastic!
day 18 – Monument Valley to Page (141 mls – 227 km)
After waking up, we headed to Monument Valley before breakfast. The light is usually better in the morning, and we wanted to take advantage of that. We had breakfast at the visitor center after they made it clear to us that we weren't allowed to drive the Ring Road with our camper. And since we weren't allowed to drive the Ring Road, we opted for a short circular hiking trail. This also offered us completely different views, and standing in front of these "monuments" makes you feel a bit small. Almost two hours later, we were
back in the car and headed toward Page. The landscapes changed several times, and once again we were impressed. By lunchtime we were already in Page and, instead of a snack, we treated ourselves to a restaurant. Unfortunately, the bison burger was no longer available, but we still had a burger, which was also very tasty. After that, we continued on to Glen Canyon Dam, a small dam 216 meters high. Beautiful views here too, although it wasn't just the nature that was there to marvel at. Three days ago, we had set up camp at the end of the reservoir formed by this dam. After replenishing our supplies, which we have always kept very minimal, we also brought our car out of hibernation and finally filled up the water tanks. Unfortunately, the entire water system is uninsulated beneath the cabin, and we often experienced the occasional frost, so we were advised against it. But now we can use the full functionality of our camper and set up camp even further from civilization.
day 19 – Page to Antelope Canyon and Pampa again (Lees Ferry) (44 mls – 71 km)
Today we had to, or were allowed to, get up a little earlier than the last few days. We had booked a short tour to Antelope Canyon. We were supposed to be picked up at 8:30, so it was best to get everything ready to leave beforehand. No sooner said than done, and today, for the first time on this vacation, it was supposed to be really warm and sunny. So, put on the sunblock right away, so you don't turn into cancer with the first sun. You can't really see Antelope Canyon itself from above, as it's completely carved, or rather washed out, into the rock, and has openings that are only one to three meters wide. The descent was via steep stairs, although here too, the term ladder would be more appropriate, because you definitely felt more comfortable going down two of them backwards. In the canyon, you couldn't stop marveling. Around every single bend, you could admire new, incredible, impressive formations created by water, and sometimes sand and wind. The colors are sometimes not even clearly visible in the photos. Absolutely fascinating. And so it can easily
take an hour to walk around 400 meters. Our guide explained a lot, not only about the formation but also about the rock itself, and even about accidents that happened during a sudden downpour that left the canyon completely flooded, making escape impossible. Emergency precautions are now in place for this, too. Shortly before 11:00 a.m., we were dropped off back at our camper, and we set off. First, we filled up the tank; after all, we were heading out into the wilderness and needed gas not only for the camper, but possibly also for the generator. Shortly before our destination, we crossed a pass and suddenly saw another endless expanse before us, where only the Colorado River had carved out a narrow canyon. After the obligatory photo stop, we continued on, and a short while later, we set up camp on the Colorado River in Marple Canyon. We've already crossed the "little stream" a few times, each time at a height of well over 150 meters, which made the river look harmless. But now, so close to it, you can see that's not the case. A beautiful sandy beach just a few meters from our campsite let us at least test the cold waters with our feet. Tomorrow morning, after breakfast, I'll jump right in and dig out my swimming trunks. But we didn't get any older today. From -4°C last night to almost 30°C today is a big jump, and the sun or rather the heat has taken its toll on us.
day 20 – Lees Ferry to Grand Canyon Village (133 mls – 214 km)
Breakfast and swimwear on. It's a must. As decided yesterday, after breakfast we headed into the cold waters of the Colorado River. I couldn't stand it for long, but hey, I haven't been this fresh in the morning for a long time. After changing into dry clothes, we set off. Somewhere near the Grand Canyon, for a quick dip or something. It was a few miles to go, though. Meli, the navigator and site organizer for the night, was starting to panic a bit, because you're not allowed to camp in the national park, and the available sites seemed to be decreasing every time we had an internet connection, and they couldn't be booked online, but only on-site. So after we reached the first viewpoint in the national park, we decided to drive to the campground first and then continue from there. That worked out surprisingly well, and after we had checked into our very affordable spot in Grand Canyon Village, we were able to take the free shuttle bus directly to the visitor center and from there take a short hike along the "rim" of the canyon. Once again, I can only use superlatives to describe what we were able to see here. Unbelievable and indescribable. Sometimes you don't even know how to process these impressions; it borders on sensory overload.
day 21 – Grand Canyon Village to Diamont Creek (266 mls – 428 km)
We slept well, but we still woke up earlier than we had in the last two weeks. Well, what the heck? Breakfast and off we go. The Google Sat Nav failed miserably and sent us back and forth through the village before we decided to try using the traffic signs and direction
indicators. But even that didn't work right away. Eventually, we made it out of the village and headed south. In Williams, we reached Interstate 40, which largely replaced the world-famous Route 66. But a few kilometers of the old road somehow still survive, and we didn't miss it. But what can I say? Apart from the impressive landscapes and the occasional sand devil, it was hardly any different from the Interstate. Lots of straight roads, few curves, and the two villages we passed through—hmm, I doubt they ever had any sparkle. In Kingsman, we quickly filled up the tank and turned north again. Meadview was the destination, with its equally famous Skywalk, where you can walk about 150 meters above the ground across a glass-bottomed bridge at Eagle Point. The view was good, but since you had to leave your camera, cell phone, and everything, that was it. We continued on to Guano Point. There was neither a gift shop nor an excessive number of tourists. There
were no barriers, and you could move around freely. You could get right up to the cliff, and the view was many times better than at Eagle Point. Admittedly, the rock, which, with a little imagination, appears to be an eagle, is quite something, but Guano Point is better, and you can safely save the $25 for the glass-bottom bridge. Back at the camper, we first prepared everything in the parking lot and put the car in the water so we could get a good night's sleep. We had barely sat down to eat when the park ranger came and sent us, along with the others who had already prepared for the night, away. It's no longer permitted to spend the night at the visitor center; an area had been prepared for overnight guests four miles from the visitor center, and we had to move. At least we were able to finish our meal. Unfortunately, there's no WiFi at the new site, and the video surveillance described on the website probably doesn't exist here either. But the site was good. And after we've settled in again, we quickly freshen up after the second really warm day and then it's time for the bunk.
day 22 – Diamont Creek to Las Vegas (119 mls – 192 km)
Today's stage was supposed to be a bit shorter. We headed for another campsite. Blackwater, greywater, freshwater, propane gas—everything needs an update. After breakfast, we set off leisurely, heading south again. I think I've written about that a few times over the last few days, but if you end up heading north again, that's just how it is. A quick stop at the Hoover Dam, which took a bit longer, and then we had a late lunch at the campsite. First, we had to clear things up; a lot had accumulated over the last few days. A quick mop wouldn't hurt, but at least a sweep. And so quickly, an afternoon comes to an end. But not the day—we're in Las Vegas, and the city supposedly never sleeps, and we didn't want to miss that. And there's certainly a lot to see.
day 23 – Las Vegas for car return and checki in at the Excalibur (4 mls – 6 km)
We were already in Las Vegas and had to return the camper first thing today. That went relatively quickly, which we hadn't expected. Because we were so quick, we actually had to wait almost an hour and a half for the shuttle bus provided by Road-Bear to take us to the
hotel. But even that wasn't a big deal, since even with the early check-in we wouldn't have been able to check in before 12 p.m., so it worked out. There, we quickly rearranged our luggage, which was also quick; we had obviously packed well in the camper yesterday. After just driving around the campsite yesterday, today we headed to the "Strip." The Las Vegas Boulevard, 4 miles long, or a good six kilometers of madness. One major hotel with an associated casino after the other. The corresponding theme parks are a must, of course. But I think everyone knows the stories about Las Vegas, and I don't need to write much about them. But we didn't want to miss the famous fountains at the Bellagio Hotel. By now it's almost 9:00 p.m., and we head back to our hotel. Walking so many kilometers in this heat is exhausting.
day 24 – Las Vegas over Chicago to Zürich (xxx mls – xxx km)
The alarm clock rings shortly after four o'clock. Worse than at work. Good thing I still had a Coke from yesterday, so at least I had some caffeine to wake me up. Meli orders an Uber taxi and off we go to the airport. The first check-in counter is already in front of the door. Meli puts her suitcase on the belt and that's it. I still have to bag my backpack so that all the straps don't get caught in the conveyor belts
and then I'm ready. But oh dear, it's too heavy. How can this happen now? I hardly bought anything and had about 6 kg of air on the outbound flight. He can't check in my backpack like this; I have to go to the counter in the hall. But there was no arguing with the counter lady either; she wanted me to unpack 3 kg. Well, we squeezed a few more things into our hand luggage, then unpacked and threw away the three cans of beer from the New Holland Brewery, along with a few old clothes, and then it should be fine. And it did. Only as my backpack rolled away over the belt did I realize that we actually have 23 kg of checked baggage, and because of the early hour, I must have only heard 3 kg, even though it should have been only 3 pounds. Too late; once it's gone, it's gone. Three hours of flying in a brand-new Airbus A321-neo literally flew by. A three-hour layover in Chicago was supposed to be a very entertaining experience at what was once the world's largest airport. But the international terminals are a disaster; there's absolutely nothing to shop or look around, and the restaurant selection is beyond meager. But we definitely need a bite to eat; we've been on the road for a few hours. The first plane was as new as the next one was. A Boeing 767-300 from the pre-war 1900s. But it wasn't fully booked, and I upgraded myself to a window seat before takeoff.
day 25 – Ankunft in Zürich und ab ins Büro (xxx mls – xxx km)
There was no sleeping on the flight, even though I had plenty of room, so after a beer or two, I enjoyed the view during the night flight. The flight arrived in Zurich on time. I quickly collected my luggage and sprinted to the train. And of course, I said goodbye to Meli. Before I knew it, I was on the train, and a good two hours later, I was back in the office. What a vacation.
Conclusion:
Wow, what a vacation! Now I need a vacation. Around 6,254 km or 3,824 miles in three weeks is quite something. But these impressions, these vast expanses, this variety – you can't really describe it, you have to experience it. Meli was, and still is, thrilled with the trip too. We saw and experienced things you usually only read about, so many impressions in such a short time, it was a kind of sensory overload that overwhelmed us. We'll probably need a few more days to process it all. In the end, it cost a bit more than expected, but that was partly because the winter was a bit harsher than in recent years, meaning we couldn't use the camper's full potential until the last few days of the road trip, as we had to be careful not to freeze the water system, and partly because of the route we chose. A different route towards the southeast would certainly have saved us a few francs because we would have been able to park more often, but in the end, we don't want to look at that, but rather at what we experienced, and it was definitely worth it.
Many love and see you next time
Your Ecki and companions